![]() "I have to admit that modern restorers have a hard time restoring such items because it is almost impossible to find such small freshwater pearls these days." "Just look at the women’s pointed caps from Pskov embroidered with the tiniest river pearls: it is incredible how fine the tools must have been to make holes in those tiny pearls - several times smaller than a matchstick in diameter," the exhibition curator said. The most luxurious folk costumes in the Hermitage collection were created by artisans of the Russian North and North-West Russia, Tarasova said, where fur, river pearls and mother-of-pearl were in abundance and there were strong traditions of lacemaking and embroidery. Largely thanks to her efforts, elements of Russian folk costume were blended naturally with the court’s traditional styles, as can be seen in the gala court coats of the 1830s-1900s, the intricate costumes of court nurses and court singers, as well as military and livery coats and the Russian-style ball costumes. As a princess of German origin, and someone who ascended the throne as a result of imperfect political maneuvering, the empress sought opportunities to broadcast her affinity to Russian culture and traditions. It was Catherine who introduced sundresses, kokoshniki, and long flap sleeves to the Russian court. Catherine simply came to the meeting in the uniform of the Preobrazhensky Regiment of the Life Guards.” Gustav had sent a large military contingent to the Russian border a few months before the meeting. She chose to wear a uniform, knowing perfectly well that Gustav could not stand military uniforms, which were even banned at his court. "For example, the Empress wore a uniform when she went to Friedrichsgem in 1783 for difficult negotiations with Gustav III, King of Sweden. “We begin the exhibition with Catherine the Great because she was the first Russian monarch to appreciate the immense political power of costume, particularly its folk elements," Nina Tarasova, curator at the Costume Gallery and head of the Applied Art Section of the Hermitage's Russian Cultural History Department, told The Moscow Times. Catherine II used costume to strengthen her personal power, communicate with diplomats, and promote the military and political agenda of the Russian state. She worked hard to integrate them in the court fashion and wardrobe. Catherine wore the admiral’s uniform when she attended ceremonies to launch ships or celebrate the victories of the Russian fleet.Īs early as the 1770-80s the far-sighted empress recognized the strong potential of folk elements in costume. The exhibition opens with an impressive regal trio of uniforms of Catherine the Great: the uniform of the Semyonovsky and Konnogvardeysky regiments and the uniform of the admiral of the Russian fleet. The showcases on the left side tell the history of folk costume and its variations in different Russian provinces, and the showcases on the right display court and fashionable attire. The exhibition is designed as a dialogue between traditional folk costume and tailor-made ceremonial and gala outfits inspired by classical folk traditions. ![]() The earliest examples from the folk costume collection date from the second half of the 13th century, and the latest ones were made in the early 20th century, when traditional clothing largely gave way to modern dress. The exhibition called "Russian Style: Traditions and Transformations” now on display at the Hermitage’s Staraya Derevnya Restoration and Storage Center brings together centuries of Russian clothing. ecclesiastical garments and exquisite royal outfits from the famous 1903 Winter Palace costume ball - the evolution of Russian fashion comes alive as more than a hundred outfits from the Hermitage collection unveil their precious stories. fine brocade dresses of the Tsar's ladies in waiting and couture dresses of contemporary Russian designers. ![]() Embroidered silver plumes of gala dresses and sumptuous kokoshniki lavishly embroidered with pearls.
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